🔗 Share this article

When curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the family utterly shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble shop earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.